The mysterious Madame Lipska and her aluminium folding screen…

โ€ฆor actually Sara Lipska โ€“ designer extraordinaire

Boutique interior late 1920s. Black- and white photo. A photo in black and white of a boutique interior. A table in front with flowers on and a metal folding screen in the back.
Four different busts depicting Sara Lipska by Xawery Dunikowski.
Bust depicting Sara Lipska by Xawery Dunikowski.

For years I have seen this image [above and below] surface on Instagram. Because my Dad, some ten years ago, made me two wardrobe doors I have been thinking of turning into a folding screen โ€“ inspired by the aluminium screen in the photo โ€“ I must have saved this image on my phone a thousand times.
Then today, I suddenly wondered: Who was this Madame Lipska with the exclusive and super stylish fashion studioโ€ฆ?

Well, it turns out her name was Sara Lipska (1882โ€“1973) and she was so much more than a fashion designer. She was a sculptor, costume designer, painter, textile artist and an interior designer amongst other things.

Boutique interior late 1920s. Black- and white photo. A photo in black and white of a boutique interior. A table in front with flowers on and a metal folding screen in the back
Interior frรฅn Madame Lipskaโ€™s boutique on Champs-ร‰lysรฉes, circa 1925. Photos: Thรฉrรจse Bonney, Smithsonian Libraries.

Born in Poland Sara Lipska was in 1904 admitted to Warsawโ€™s Academy of Fine Arts โ€“ the first school in Poland to accept women โ€“ where she studied classical sculpture. A choice quite remarkable for a young woman from an orthodox Jewish Hasidic family. Especially considering all student started their studies with life drawing from the human figure.
Already at the academy Sara was noticed for the outfits she would create for dance events where students from the different art schools were allowed to showcase their work.

For me, there are clear parallels between Sara Lipskaโ€™s lifeโ€™s work and that of Swedish interior designer Sylvia Stave and Finnish Swedish jewellery designer Amanda Pihl.
Three women who were celebrated by their contemporaries, but who โ€“ by taking a small step back from active careers โ€“ were later forgotten by design history.

Soon, however, Sara Lipska was captured by the avant garde movement which would shape the rest of her career. In the early 1910s she left Poland and she moved to Paris where she settled permanently in 1912. The move is thought to have been accelerated to avoid the scandal surrounding her divorce from her husband, Mendel Lipszyc โ€“ with whom she had a son in 1902 โ€“ and her relationship with her teacher, the artist and sculptor Xawery Dunikowski. To Paris she brought the daughter, Maria Xawera, she had with Dunikowski (born in 1908) while her son remained in Poland in the care of his father.

Woman early 1900s standing in an artist studio.
. Sara Lipska, circa 1904 at Warsaw School of Fine Arts. Photographic print, private collection in Paris via polishfashionstories
Woman early 1900s standing beside big art work/sculpture.
Sara Lipska
drawing with light, clear blue background with plants and people in gold and silver.
Material design, gouache, paper. Musรฉe de Poitiers. Photo: vogue.pl

There were imaginably many other reasons for the move. Paris was the epicenter of modern art in the rapidly changing modern world.
At first, Sara Lipska relied on the help and support of her younger brother Izydor, who worked in the textile trade, as well as extended family members but she quickly and soon found her place in a group of her likes, in the circle of notable, cultural avant garde figures. Sculptors, painters, designers and writers, among them Picasso, Modigliani and Chagall.
It should be noted that even before leaving Poland, Lipska had gained recognition for her painting Doves, (today part of Annie Partoucheโ€™s private collection) a reference to her Jewish heritage depicting a Jewish woman seated in a golden chair against a blue-gold tapestry, dressed in a golden and pearl-embroidered dress with birds at her feet.

In Paris, Lipska started designing costumes for Sergei Diaghilev, the founder and reformer of the Ballets Russes. The ballet company had become the talk of the town already in 1910 when Scheherazade was staged at the Paris Opera to Rimsky-Korsakovโ€™s music.
Sara worked in the studio of Lรฉon Bakst, the renowned painter, set and costume designer. The close contact Sara Lipska had with Bakst and the world of Parisian theatre would significantly influence her artistic development. In the early 1920s, Sara Lipska also collaborated with Jacques Rouchรฉ, director of the Opรฉra Garnier.

Painting for a set design. Black background with colourful people and flowers and trees.
Sarah Lipska, Maquette de dรฉcor pour les Ballets russes de Serge Diaghilev, circa 1914, watercolour and gouache on paper. Private collection. Photo: awarewomenartists.com
Five sketches of five different theatre costumes.
Different designs for theatre costumes by Sara Lipska. Photos found online.

Madame Lipska

During this the 1920s, Sara Lipska began designing womenโ€™s clothing and textiles. Many of her works featured an Oriental style that became her hallmark. Embroidered on silk or satin with elegant women, birds like colourful peacocks, landscapes and flowers came to life.
Toward the end of the decade, she opened her first atelier at 4 Rue Belloni in Montparnasse, followed in 1928 by a boutique at 146 Avenue des Champs-ร‰lysรฉes. Amongst her many notable clients was Helena Rubinstein, with whom she shared a lifelong friendship.

Sketch of woman in 1920s looking clothes. Beige hat and coat.
Sara Lipska design for Madame Gautrat, circa 1930,. Private collection. Photo: palianshow.wordpress.com/
Three drawings of three different clothes designs.
Three different clothes designs by Sara Lipska. Photos found online
Beige coat in 1920s style.
Coat by Sara Lipska. Photo: alienor.org
Sketch of woman in sailor inspired dress design in 1920s style.
Dress design by Sara Lipska, circa 1930. Photo: artdone.wordpress.com
Sleeveless dress with two contrasting sides on the left and red dress with long sleeves on mannequin on the right.
To the left: Dress, circa 1925, silk, tulle, satin. Musรฉe de Poitiers. Photo: vogue.pl To the right: Dress, circa 1928. Photo: palianshow.wordpress.com Both designs by Sara Lipska.
A man and a woman dressed in suits of almost theatrical, folklore designs from the 1920s.
Antoine de Paris and model in suits by Sara Lipska. Photos found online.
Dress and cape. Close-up of the print in the cape.
Dress, circa 19220s and cape, circa 1925. Photo: palianshow.wordpress.com

The Champs-ร‰lysรฉes boutique was itself a design momentum, featuring elements in glass and aluminium. A coffee table in glass, a geometric aluminium chest and the aluminium folding screen.
During this period Sara Lipska also collaborated with Maison Myrbor, a French design and production company, on furniture, curtains, wallpaper, perfume bottles and much more.

Boutique interior late 1920s. Black and white photo.
Interior frรฅn Madame Lipskaโ€™s boutique on Champs-ร‰lysรฉes, circa 1925. Photos: Thรฉrรจse Bonney, Smithsonian Libraries
Boutique interior late 1920s. Black- and white photo. Shelf and wallmounted seating area.
Interior from Madame Lipskaโ€™s boutique on Champs-ร‰lysรฉes, circa 1925. Photos: Thรฉrรจse Bonney, Smithsonian Libraries
Boutique interior late 1920s. Black- and white photo.
Interior from Madame Lipskaโ€™s boutique on Champs-ร‰lysรฉes, circa 1925. Photo: Thรฉrรจse Bonney, Smithsonian Libraries
Boutique interior late 1920s. Black and white photo.
Interior from Madame Lipskaโ€™s boutique on Champs-ร‰lysรฉes. Photo: Smithsonian
Boutique interior late 1920s. Black- and white photo. Display.
A display in Madame Lipskaโ€™s boutique on Champs-ร‰lysรฉes, circa 1925. Photos: Thรฉrรจse Bonney, Smithsonian Libraries

Interiors and a radiator from Madame Lipska’s boutique on Champs-ร‰lysรฉes. Photos: Thรฉrรจse Bonney, Smithsonian Libraries